HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
First off, I want to say thanks to Crusher, drdx, and the rest of the guys for answering my questions last week about what a remote would or wouldn't do.
Second off, MY WIFE decided to RUN OVER our digital camera so these pictures will suck. I'll be using my BlackBerry to take them. So, just a heads up.
I wanted to throw this little picture tutorial together on how to wire your own remote for competition-inspired amps like DaveMade, Fatboy, X-Force, etc. Most of the newer amps produced by the big names in the business have a remote port to install a remote control. If you’re like me, you may be limited on space on where you can install your amp. For me, I drive a 09 Tacoma and the best place is behind the second row of seats in my quad cab truck.
If you go to these companies and look for a remote, most start around $35 and go up from there. Some single switch remotes with a LED can cost $50 depending on what manufacturer you buy it from. With my help and this tutorial you can create a custom length remote for under $12. In some instances as cheap as $5-10.
You can make this as simple or as fancy as you like. I personally like cheap and clean…I don’t need to wire up 10 LED’s to make it look pretty, and I sure as heck don’t need a stainless steel box for mine. For this setup I’m going to be using a simple Rat Shack project box, the smallest of the boxes they currently have which is ABS plastic. It’s simple to drill, and feels good in construction. If you wanted to get "cute" you could add some LED's, multiple switches, or whatever else you can dream up.
Here’s the things you need to get started:
#1. ¼” Stereo Phone Jack – 3 Conductor
#2. Single Pole switch. I chose a blue illuminated switch for ease of use.
#3. 3-wire cable. I went to the local hardware store and picked up 10 ft and it was .25 cents a foot. The type I used is made for alarms and is 3 wire. You can use 4, 5, or eve 6 wire…just use the 3 wires and cut the other wires off.
#4. Enclosure box. Like I said above, go simple, or go expensive. Better yet you can go without this and just install the switch in your vehicle somewhere.
Tools I used:
#1. Decent soldering iron and solder.
#2. Wire stripper or your favorite pair of needle nose pliers.
#3. Heat Shrink. Not needed but I use the stuff on everything.
#4. Drill with 2 bits. One big one for the switch and one small one for the wire feed.
#5. Screwdrivers.
Now, let’s get started.
First off, decide how you want to mount the switch. I decided I wanted mine on the narrow side of the project box so it will fit in my hand. Drill a small hole to feed the wire through the box.
I like to take the wire and make a KNOT in it. This way if something snags the wire, it will pull on the knot and NOT your solder joints.
Splice the wires down. My 3 wire has RED, WHITE, GREEN. For my install I’m making RED HOT, WHITE ACCESSORY, and GREEN GROUND. It doesn’t matter really how you use which color as long as it matches on both sides.
Drill a hole in the box for the switch and test fit. Now install the wires into the terminals on the switch.
The next thing to do is some light soldering. Solder the wires onto the switch. This makes a nice secure connection. I’m sure you can do without soldering, but that’s your baby and not mine.
Feed the switch in the box, and secure it with the locking nut.
Put the excess wire in the box and secure the box cover. This side of the box is complete.
Next up is the ¼” Stereo Phone Jack.
There are 3 connectors inside this Stereo Phone Jack.
The center connector is the TIP
The middle connector is the RING
The outer connector is the GROUND
So, you want to do RED to the TIP, WHITE to the RING, and GREEN to the GROUND
At this point I slid the heat shrink tubing on, the insulator on, and the outside screw on shield on.
Feed the wires through and strip them.
Bend the wires over the terminals and apply solder.
Slide the insulator and heat shrink tubing over and apply heat to the tubing.
Slide the cover/shield over the Stereo Phone Jack and screw it on.
YOU’RE DONE!
Next thing up is to test it out. I took mine outside and it works awesome. Leave the amp turned off, plug in the stereo phone jack, and flip the switch. The LED in the illuminated switch, the LED on the amp, and the fan should kick on. YOU’VE DONE IT! Best part, is you’ve just spent $10 on something that the big amp builders charge $50 for. The switch options are endless. Today at Radio Shack I saw probably 100 different switches. I wanted one that would light up, but I didn't need one that was 2" long, and I don't really like the small lay flat ones with the little RED led. Just find whatever type of switch you like, and use it.
I hope you enjoyed, and hope you will save some coin and build your own remote as well. This is a nice fun project and anyone can do it...all you need is some basic soldering skills and a few minutes of time. An experienced solderer can probably do it in a couple of minutes. It took me about half an hour, and that was with typing this out and taking pictures, lol. Once again, sorry about the crappy pictures...a cell phone can only do SO much!
Second off, MY WIFE decided to RUN OVER our digital camera so these pictures will suck. I'll be using my BlackBerry to take them. So, just a heads up.
I wanted to throw this little picture tutorial together on how to wire your own remote for competition-inspired amps like DaveMade, Fatboy, X-Force, etc. Most of the newer amps produced by the big names in the business have a remote port to install a remote control. If you’re like me, you may be limited on space on where you can install your amp. For me, I drive a 09 Tacoma and the best place is behind the second row of seats in my quad cab truck.
If you go to these companies and look for a remote, most start around $35 and go up from there. Some single switch remotes with a LED can cost $50 depending on what manufacturer you buy it from. With my help and this tutorial you can create a custom length remote for under $12. In some instances as cheap as $5-10.
You can make this as simple or as fancy as you like. I personally like cheap and clean…I don’t need to wire up 10 LED’s to make it look pretty, and I sure as heck don’t need a stainless steel box for mine. For this setup I’m going to be using a simple Rat Shack project box, the smallest of the boxes they currently have which is ABS plastic. It’s simple to drill, and feels good in construction. If you wanted to get "cute" you could add some LED's, multiple switches, or whatever else you can dream up.
Here’s the things you need to get started:
#1. ¼” Stereo Phone Jack – 3 Conductor
#2. Single Pole switch. I chose a blue illuminated switch for ease of use.
#3. 3-wire cable. I went to the local hardware store and picked up 10 ft and it was .25 cents a foot. The type I used is made for alarms and is 3 wire. You can use 4, 5, or eve 6 wire…just use the 3 wires and cut the other wires off.
#4. Enclosure box. Like I said above, go simple, or go expensive. Better yet you can go without this and just install the switch in your vehicle somewhere.
Tools I used:
#1. Decent soldering iron and solder.
#2. Wire stripper or your favorite pair of needle nose pliers.
#3. Heat Shrink. Not needed but I use the stuff on everything.
#4. Drill with 2 bits. One big one for the switch and one small one for the wire feed.
#5. Screwdrivers.
Now, let’s get started.
First off, decide how you want to mount the switch. I decided I wanted mine on the narrow side of the project box so it will fit in my hand. Drill a small hole to feed the wire through the box.
I like to take the wire and make a KNOT in it. This way if something snags the wire, it will pull on the knot and NOT your solder joints.
Splice the wires down. My 3 wire has RED, WHITE, GREEN. For my install I’m making RED HOT, WHITE ACCESSORY, and GREEN GROUND. It doesn’t matter really how you use which color as long as it matches on both sides.
Drill a hole in the box for the switch and test fit. Now install the wires into the terminals on the switch.
The next thing to do is some light soldering. Solder the wires onto the switch. This makes a nice secure connection. I’m sure you can do without soldering, but that’s your baby and not mine.
Feed the switch in the box, and secure it with the locking nut.
Put the excess wire in the box and secure the box cover. This side of the box is complete.
Next up is the ¼” Stereo Phone Jack.
There are 3 connectors inside this Stereo Phone Jack.
The center connector is the TIP
The middle connector is the RING
The outer connector is the GROUND
So, you want to do RED to the TIP, WHITE to the RING, and GREEN to the GROUND
At this point I slid the heat shrink tubing on, the insulator on, and the outside screw on shield on.
Feed the wires through and strip them.
Bend the wires over the terminals and apply solder.
Slide the insulator and heat shrink tubing over and apply heat to the tubing.
Slide the cover/shield over the Stereo Phone Jack and screw it on.
YOU’RE DONE!
Next thing up is to test it out. I took mine outside and it works awesome. Leave the amp turned off, plug in the stereo phone jack, and flip the switch. The LED in the illuminated switch, the LED on the amp, and the fan should kick on. YOU’VE DONE IT! Best part, is you’ve just spent $10 on something that the big amp builders charge $50 for. The switch options are endless. Today at Radio Shack I saw probably 100 different switches. I wanted one that would light up, but I didn't need one that was 2" long, and I don't really like the small lay flat ones with the little RED led. Just find whatever type of switch you like, and use it.
I hope you enjoyed, and hope you will save some coin and build your own remote as well. This is a nice fun project and anyone can do it...all you need is some basic soldering skills and a few minutes of time. An experienced solderer can probably do it in a couple of minutes. It took me about half an hour, and that was with typing this out and taking pictures, lol. Once again, sorry about the crappy pictures...a cell phone can only do SO much!
Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
Great write up linx! Thanks for doing that!!! I was getting ready to consider building one myself here soon...and you saved me the added brain cells to think it through again. Believe me, I need all the extra cells I can get as the aging process hasn't been kind to me.
- drdx
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
Nice, now go ahead and make it a dual remote, you'll need it before long. On another topic, how did you get your wife to start running? Mine wouldn't run from a burning building to a purse sale at the Coach outlet if it was next door. Her idea of fitness is me dressing up as a pizza guy and ringing the door bell, followed by 8 hours of physical confrontation about how she didn't order a pizza. Then, her friends show up and they're not happy with their pizzas, and it turns into an all nighter. Some days I'm the cable guy. Last birthday, I bought her some jogging shoes and she returned them for a pair of high heel pumps, for ME. I've thought of putting the refrigerator on an extension cord way out back so she would have spend some energy getting there, but that makes my backup beers vulnerable to the neighbors.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
Looks good Linx. nice job.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
thanks, it a good job!!!
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplifiers
Hey linx, what kind of amp did you end up running?
-drdx
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Yes it's me, Dollar-98, drdx, the original all maul, shot cawla on workin this no-fade technology.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
Excellent! My amp is in my trunk and now I can turn it on remotely and see that it's on with the lighted switch! Good stuff! Thanks!
Mr. Stacy Adams, San Francisco, "With the Golden Gate Bridge as the reflector to my flat side".
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Imax 2000 on top of a 3-element Sirio flat
Cobra 2000 with a D104
Uniden Grant with a D104 Minuteman II
Galaxy DX959' with an 1104C
Magnum S680' with a Silver Eagle
An Extra Class Ham with ham gear too just cuz...
- maters
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
Thank you !!! Did this today and works 100%.
I have forgot to turn my box of and thank goodness never had a dead battery but much nicer knowing it is off.
I have forgot to turn my box of and thank goodness never had a dead battery but much nicer knowing it is off.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
thanks i was fixin to build one of these moving everything to the toolbox.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
My Fatboy has 2 positions, one for AM and one for SSB. Does anyone know how to make a remote for that?
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
You make a good point. I'd like to know that too.commando57 wrote:My Fatboy has 2 positions, one for AM and one for SSB. Does anyone know how to make a remote for that?
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
I'm the king of Mike Mike projects, and I'm wondering the same - remote switch for an amp with On/Off, Pre, SSB switches. What if you attached wires to both sides of the switches and run the wires to the remote switch? Would this work as a "switch bypass". You wouldn't need to remove the switches. Thoughts??
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
If the switches switch low current and no HF this will work.Wheelerdude wrote:What if you attached wires to both sides of the switches and run the wires to the remote switch? Would this work as a "switch bypass". You wouldn't need to remove the switches. Thoughts??
Will work: AM/SSB-Switches (for delay) and Preamp-Switches
May work: Some sort of Power-Switches (Check the circuit!)
May work but is most of the times not wise: Hi/Lo switches (Will work if theyre not switching the HF directly over the Switch through an Attenuator)
Regards
Patrick
de 13PR87
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
nice walk threw and detail with pics.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
Good thread! I know plenty of people who wired their remotes wrong and smoked the wiring up like a cheap cigar.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
I would like to build a remote for my Messenger M4V amp.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
Building a remote is nothing more than mimicking the amps control panel, the hard part is finding a cord with the right amount of wires to make it, 8 wire rotor cable usually has enough for on/off, AM/SSB, preamp/on. Again it will work if the RF bypass is switched by a relay. Power function (low/mid/high) will need a few more wires. Remember to ferrite bead all the wires at both ends.
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
i suppose if there is more than 3 wires you would have to have more than one remote jack or one that has more that 3 pins/connections in the receptacle
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Re: HOW TO: Build/Wire your own REMOTE for Comp-Style Amplif
Just find a jack and plug that fits the need, I've seen them with more than 24 pins, if you think the pin is too small just double up on one lead.
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